Sunday, 22 February 2015

Asian Drivers

Asian Drivers : I have become one :) ! Don't laugh, its not a skill, it is a survival instinct. To survive they stay in the group, that extends to heavy traffic. Pull out into the traffic and don't look back , your part of the group. Most motorcycles do not have mirrors, and very often cars turn there mirrors in and never use them. Why would you use a mirror , your in the group. ? The culture is way to polite to honk there horns, so bad driving is never recognized , unlike western road rage, letting drivers know they did something stupid.
 Left hand turns across several lanes of oncoming traffic are accomplished by slowly driving into oncoming traffic, one lane at a time. The oncoming traffic will swerve around you as long as they can, until eventually it has to stop. If you did look back into a mirror you would see that others have joined your group to make a left across several lanes of traffic you brought to a stop. I could very easily be the first one thru any intersection when a light turns green , but I wait , staying with the group , and never sure how big the group of traffic running the red light is , I avoid being part of any accident.
I find pockets of tourists are scattered around most countries, as they follow there guide books. Forty years later, tourism is still flocking to the genocide sites of Cambodia. Cambodians would love forget this past, and have the rest of the world see the country as it stands today. The architecture , universities, a young, fast growing middle class. I see I-Phones in the hands of those working long days, and everyone seems to have a motorcycle, or scooter.
Unable to fill the demand for construction workers , Thailand uses eager workers from Myanmar who work long days , every day, and put up buildings at incredible speed compared to western standards.
English teaching schools are everywhere , as well as shopping malls that have everything from cosmetic surgeons ,  teeth whitening, skin whitening, shops with the newest electronics, latest fashions, and movies. Students fill coffee shops bringing their I pads to staying connected, while sipping expensive tea... 
I have broken my New Years resolution to stop exercising :) ..Staying at a 4* hotel with a good gym,  I stood on a scale... 170 pounds / 77 kilo's :( down from the 188 pounds when I left Seattle last year. The Asian diet is healthy compared to western , so maybe I will just let weight be what ever it is and just stay focused on putting on some more muscle and getting in the gym more often.

There is still a lot for me to see and visit, but it will have to wait. Vietnam, Bhutan, China, Malaysia, Indonesia, Taiwan, Philippines, Papua New Guinea, East Timor are still on my radar.. but its at least another year and will have to wait until I return from the USA. I miss my bed, rain, cloudy days, friends, and family. I did meet an Australian travelling SE Asia on his motorcycle. he modified a carrier to take his surf board with him . He loved SE Asia, spent a year with his surf board, now headed towards India.  I can see that its going to take some time to properly see these countries...
Chinese New Year ..

Many parks have these open gyms the public uses. In the early evening they are busy, as well as large groups in the parks doing aerobic exercise to loud music. " always groups "  

Country life , farmers homes are kept above seasonal floods waters. It reminded me of parts of Africa where the kids stopped what they were doing at the sound of the motorcycle and came running to see what was going on.

Travel along the Mekong River is common between Vietnam, and Cambodia.

There are small and large temples everywhere. Homes , businesses , all have a temple where daily offerings are placed. I see everything placed in front from a cup of coffee, to cigarettes .

Cambodia hosted an international bicycle race , held at night businesses closed early.

 

Wednesday, 14 January 2015

Cambodia

Happy New year 2015 !! Crazy thinking that 2014 is over.. it went incredibly FAST .. and now January is 1/2 over and I haven't done anything .. So if the blog is a bore ahhh sorry..
Have a look at my restored BMW F800 GS .. It was my Christmas gift to myself , new paint, and many new bits and pieces. $300 USD well spent :)
Not sure if I was just tired when I decided to make NOT exercising in 2015 my New Years resolution, or what, but so far so good !! How many of you are still keeping your resolutions ?

The highlight of the past year was Pakistan , riding to the border of China in the Himalayan mountains.. the low was probably the horrible traffic accidents in India..

A few days ago I entered Cambodia and headed the same direction most tourists do, to Angkor Wat .Angkor Wat is a world heritage site. First a Hindu Temple, now Buddhist, dating back to the 12th century . Over Lander Dan from England is here and we will catch up on each others travel before moving on again.
Although there are a large number of tourists in Cambodia, it is nothing like Thailand . Thailand was a lot of fun, but I needed to move on .. Lelo is a great friend from Tanzania who visited over the holidays.  We will have a lot of laughs years to come looking back on our tour of Thailand. Hiking, site seeing, meeting up with our friends here, discussing our global travels, and future goals over more than a beer or tooo...
I asked this older boy if I could take his picture, and he started lining up his brothers and sisters for the photo.. :) it took him a while , but I loved watching him get them just right, more than the photo it self.

I  should be on the banks of the Mekong River soon.. Boats travel to Phoem Penh Cambodia, then on to Vietnam. Its not an option to ride solo in Vietnam on your own motorcycle, so I may leave it someplace in Cambodia and take a boat for a visit while I am so close. A boat ride is probably just as safe as flying these days ... and I can swim if there is a problem !

It is still winter , and cold for most of you reading this, and if a day on a beach under the sun reading a book sounds like a good idea, let me know when your coming for a visit !
 

Saturday, 27 December 2014

Myanmar video


Its been a while since the last post, and visit to Myanmar, but I still have fond memories of travel thru the country with a mixed group of riders from around the world. Christian was one of the riders who made the Myanmar video . I hope you enjoy watching .
I have enjoyed Christmas in Thailand with a friend Lelo from Tanzania, and Ebin from Denmark. In a week its back to Bangkok, and soon after Cambodia.
Its been an exciting year visiting countries as Cameroon, Italy,  Turkey, Georgia,  Iran, Pakistan, India, Myanmar and Thailand.. The adventure probably was at its highest while in Pakistan, and calmest in Thailand.. Now enjoying Starbucks coffee again, I feel more at home in a rented house enjoying the holidays.

China has opened to unescorted travel and is on my GPS as a country to see. My dream is to spend some time in Seattle, & Canada, before eventually returning to the motorcycle. I am also looking at storing the BMW in Cambodia for a while and always having it ready for my next trip..
Christmas was also celebrated with a gift of TLC Tender loving care ... getting the BMW painted .. !! it looks great and seems it will be ready to do a few more miles. The bike now has 63,000 miles, and many new parts..

Thanks for all the nice emails over Christmas , its always nice to here from you.
Love garth
The Countryside of Myanmar  , Thanks Christian ....

http://vimeo.com/111093622#t=12s

Friday, 7 November 2014

Burma / Myanmar

Hi Guys , Sorry for the delay in a blog update .. emails are more personal I know , but  sometimes a quick post with pictures can give some reference to where I am. About 10 days ago I entered Myanmar with 10 other riders from Australia , England, Iceland, Russian, Dutch, German and myself. Its interesting traveling in such a big group and with other riders every day.. no conflict,  we do all have a common desire to travel , learn , enjoy a few laughs, meet new people , so its a nice change ...
Next week the tour of Myanmar will be over and we will all go our separate ways again , for myself I look forward to touring Thailand for the first time. Many people speak great things of the country and the food .. so I expect to spend up to 2 months there .. Hiking in the north and kicking back on the beach in the south .









Friday, 10 October 2014

Kolkata or Calcutta ...

What/s up ?? The post title should say enough ... I am broke down in Kolkata India waiting on UPS to deliver motorcycle parts. Its been an interesting two weeks , visiting consulates of Thailand, Myanmar, and Nepal ...I also paid a visit to the national museum, parks, malls, coffee shops, and of course the annual Hindu Durga Puja celebration .. It lasted 4 days ... lots of lights , music, food and people every where ...
I had intended on continuing travels north onto Kathmandu, Nepal,  then east towards Myanmar, but time is running out . October 30th I am entering Myanmar with 9 other riders . We are all on a guided trip thru the country into Thailand so I have no flexibility on dates. The stator on the BMW burnt up the first time in  South Africa ...and now in Calcutta.  It seems to me and most BMW owners, that its a bad design next to the exhaust pipes... and a very expensive fix ... The break down and time waiting for parts will mean no time in the Himalaya mountains, but I am happy it happened now instead of 1000 miles from now in Myanmar on a guided tour.
Over the course of travel I have also become a better mechanic able to repair or replace things like fuel pumps, stators, regulators, fork seals, steering bearings , cables, and wire or tape things up really good !!
If a hammer cannot fix it , its probably electrical !
Taking one's own car or motorcycle into Bangladesh is not really an option,  so the next two weeks I will do a loop around small country east towards the Myanmar border.
India can take some time to get used to, but if you are willing to laugh at things we might find odd, or different it can be a great place to visit. People are everywhere, never alone and always watching where you step !! Riding here  is an experience that  will make me happy when its over.  The country has a growing middle class and everyone wants there independence starting with a motorcycle or car.. making room for the added wheels every year creates a huge problem.. Cars driving right  towards me are normal, as are the many accidents I have witnessed.
Walking can have its hazards also .. a cow walking towards me yesterday did his business just as we passed each other .. the funny was,  we were both using the sidewalk :) ..
Kolkata now exceeds 14 million people , the  growth is amazing .. I see residential development projects that make anything in Seattle look small. Growth rates averaging 6% require new housing to be built to house almost 100,000 new people every year .. Elevated roads are being built, trains and public transport all keep things moving..
The down time in the city has allowed me to rest and eat better than I had been . I have always liked spicy food, but India puts a whole new twist on SPICY ... be careful if making a visit .



 

Sunday, 7 September 2014

Photo Friday !

I jumped on a plane as planned to visit the tropical island of Sri Lanka ! Plumbing supplies anyone ?
Queen is the leader of about 40 elephants ...
The elephants have been rescued from working in the timber industry .
Every 2nd day the elephants are taken on a walk thru town , and down to a river for a swim and play time..
Pet Snake ? This dude wanted me to hold it.. ah no thanks... its a very deadly boa constrictor.. and he has a python in his lap...
beautiful women in traditional Sri Lankan dress ..
Lots of British styled buildings still standing around the small country. this is Fort Galle
There are lots of monuments around the country in memory of the tsunami .. Almost everyone on the island lost someone.. There are grave sites all along the coast.. People are all still wanting to talk about it.. I am sure its still a healing process that will last generations .  
Of course traveling by motorcycle every few days its a trip to a petro station.
I have quickly grown to like the country.. its a slow island life where drivers stop to let others walk across the street.. friendly, and relaxed.. Tourists go about there days without locals trying to cash in ... They say everyone still carries a sadness from the tsunami.. Tuesday I fly back to India ...  knowing I will return to Sri lanka ..

Monday, 25 August 2014

Delhi

There is an immediate change as you cross the border into India from Pakistan .. unlike Canada or Mexico borders with the USA. A nightly ceremony of the Pakistan / India borders flag lowering and border closing was a lot of fun... ( on the India side )
Indian women come to dance , sing, and celebrate ... where in Pakistan, I rarely saw a women in the month I traveled the country. Gates on either side of line zero are closed at exactly the same moment every night ... the border police take a lot of pride in defending this line to  keep the peace between  Pakistan / Indian . When I left the Moroccan border in 2011 into Mauritania it was separated by " No mans Land " where I followed trails in the dirt keeping a watch for rebels in the hills and hoping the trail I was on took me to the Mauritania border post.
Only one land border is open between Pakistan and India " Atari ". the border city in India is Amritsar . The must do for any tourist, or pilgrim, is to visit the Golden temple.
I am not really sure how I got a photo with clear blue sky's during monsoon season, but after dodging rain soaked streets for the better part of my first week in India, I decided to catch  a train and head south !
Over the course of my travels riding in big cities has become a necessity .. either in search of an embassy, or dealing with the motorcycle. Some of the worlds largest I have experienced are Cairo Egypt, Lagos Nigeria, Istanbul Turkey, Lahore Pakistan, Tehran Iran,  but NONE of these cities compares to Delhi India .... an estimated population exceeding 18 million. What is difficult is the complete lack of discipline for any road rules.. I truly find myself afraid to walk across the street at times..
A big part of what is India, are the trains.. they are well worn, and in need of some cleaning and updating. I loaded the motorcycle onto a baggage car and got myself a 1st class ticket to Bangalore.. Its a 45 hour ride south of Delhi and it puts some distance between me and the heavy rains of the north. The express was not exactly " express" but I was told not to miss the experience of a train in India and I am happy I took the opportunity. The chance to sit and chat , get used to the food, and relax looking out the window was a well needed change from the streets of Delhi. Hmm 1st class isn't really 1st class , but I did get a birth 6 feet long by 30 inches wide.. a window , privacy curtain, in an air conditioned rail car ..
While travelling Pakistan the movement of westerners is quite the opposite of India. The photo here is one of the many stops each day to record personal details. . Entering a district , or leaving requires a stop, at times only a few miles apart.. Name, passport number, visa number, expiry dates, nationalities, and so on... Taking a quick look thru the pages to see if any Canadians, or Americans had dared drive thru Iran and Pakistan was always a part of these stops every day.. None have , ( in recent years )  I am sure most are part of NGO's that fly in and out.. Showing up at the American embassy in Pakistan on the motorcycle more than surprised the Americans working there...A few left there desks to come outside and take photos of me and the motorcycle.   I needed an American notary to sort out banking in a sanctioned country.. As it turned, banking was restricted until I entered India..